Finally finished my video of photos from my trip:
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Lately It Occurs to Me, What a Long Strange Trip It's Been
Bikespedition-2009
Miles: 1501
Countries on Bike: Greece, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia
Countries on Foot/Train/Plane: Serbia, Switzerland, Liechtenstein (Sweden and Iceland)
Alas this road ends. At a new crossroads in life, I must review, reconsider and recompense the previous road.
In 1501 miles cycling, 14 boat rides, 15 tram/subway trips, 8 train rides, 2 international bus trips I visited 9 countries: Greece, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Sweden and Iceland.
I slept in 22 places: 2 hostels, one apartment, 11 campgrounds, 2 hotels, a cottage, on the deck of 2 boats, a room over a tavern, on a train and in one friend’s apartment.
I also did countless hours of hiking – both for the turtles and my own edification. I kayaked over 50km, rowed and used a Croatian wooden boat each for a hour. I swam in 4 seas and 2 rivers. I also took 11 rides hitch hiking.
The highest point I attained (other than aboard planes):
1. Mt. Enos, Greece 1628 meters (5,341 feet)
2. Gaflei, Leichtenstein 1509 meters (4,950 feet)
Highest point I reached on bicycle
1. Lubovo Pass, Croatia 975 meters (3,198 feet)
2. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia 925 meters(3,035 feet)
Longest Day Cycling
Patra – Olympia 85 miles (137 km)
Worst Day Cycling
Duga Resa – Zagreb
Toughest Day Cycling
Paklenica National Park – Outside Gospic (Including the Boske Ostanje Pass)
Best Trip
1. Plitvicka Jezera National Park, Croatia
2. Argoloid (Mycenae, Nemea, Nafplio and Argos)
Toughest Climb
1. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia 925 meters
2. Akrokorinthos, Greece 609 meters
Best Campground
Camp Cikada, near Plivicka Jezera, www.cikada.eu
Worst Campground
Worst – Argostoli Beach, Greece
Worst for the Money – Camp Jezera, Murtar
Best Bike Mechanic
Pantelis - www.panbike.gr
Top Speed
38 mph (61km/h) on the Krka Loop Ride
Silliest Thing I did
Flip over a turtle
Most Frightening Moment
1. Sliding down the cliff while trying to climb Mt. Enos
3. Bungee jumping the first time
100+ km days
7
5 things I’d do again
1. Plitvicka Jezera National Park
2. Krka National Park
3. Bungee jump over the Corinth Canal
4. Kayak in the Ionian Sea
5. The whole idea
5 Things I’d do if I could do it over again
1. Not get my passport stolen
2. Not reschedule parts of my dream trip
3. Learn psi vs bar
4. Ship 50lbs back to the US
5. Bring a better tent
5 favorite views from the trip
1. Anywhere in Plitvicka Jezera, Croatia
2. Overlooking Myrtos Beach, Kefalonia, Greece
3. Sitting in the park at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens
4. The stars in Mreznicki Brig, Croatia
5. The gorge we went through on the train ride back to Belgrade, Serbia
5 most annoying people (or groups)
5. The French people sitting on the stairs at Perahora who got pissed when I wanted to walk down the only way to the site.
4. Family who made me walk the speed of their 5 year old most of the way down from Manta Pec in Paklenica.
3. Serbian Guy at the Information booth in Belgrade Train Station who told me there were no ATMs or Bankomats in Belgrade.
2. The guy who stole my passport.
1. The American woman who had to be talked into the 3 more euros to go to the museum at Olympia. Site – 6 euros; Site+Museum – 9 euros. She didn’t want to waste 3 euros to see the best collection of marble statues in Greece. And, she probably wonders why Europeans think Americans are idiots.
Money I made it home with
7 CHF - $6.56
180 ISK - $1.43
30 SEK - $4.19
10.45 HRK - $2.04
15 euro cents - $0.21
167 SRD - $2.89
Total - $17.32
Best Picture:
Akrata Beach Sunset
Best Pic of Me:
1. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia
2. Bungee Jump at the Sibenik Bridge, Croatia
Silliest Pic
Monkey Men
Best Group Picture
Atreus
Alas, I have now returned from the trip and look to the next step in life.
Tino Pai,
Jesse…
Miles: 1501
Countries on Bike: Greece, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia
Countries on Foot/Train/Plane: Serbia, Switzerland, Liechtenstein (Sweden and Iceland)
Alas this road ends. At a new crossroads in life, I must review, reconsider and recompense the previous road.
In 1501 miles cycling, 14 boat rides, 15 tram/subway trips, 8 train rides, 2 international bus trips I visited 9 countries: Greece, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Sweden and Iceland.
I slept in 22 places: 2 hostels, one apartment, 11 campgrounds, 2 hotels, a cottage, on the deck of 2 boats, a room over a tavern, on a train and in one friend’s apartment.
I also did countless hours of hiking – both for the turtles and my own edification. I kayaked over 50km, rowed and used a Croatian wooden boat each for a hour. I swam in 4 seas and 2 rivers. I also took 11 rides hitch hiking.
The highest point I attained (other than aboard planes):
1. Mt. Enos, Greece 1628 meters (5,341 feet)
2. Gaflei, Leichtenstein 1509 meters (4,950 feet)
Highest point I reached on bicycle
1. Lubovo Pass, Croatia 975 meters (3,198 feet)
2. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia 925 meters(3,035 feet)
Longest Day Cycling
Patra – Olympia 85 miles (137 km)
Worst Day Cycling
Duga Resa – Zagreb
Toughest Day Cycling
Paklenica National Park – Outside Gospic (Including the Boske Ostanje Pass)
Best Trip
1. Plitvicka Jezera National Park, Croatia
2. Argoloid (Mycenae, Nemea, Nafplio and Argos)
Toughest Climb
1. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia 925 meters
2. Akrokorinthos, Greece 609 meters
Best Campground
Camp Cikada, near Plivicka Jezera, www.cikada.eu
Worst Campground
Worst – Argostoli Beach, Greece
Worst for the Money – Camp Jezera, Murtar
Best Bike Mechanic
Pantelis - www.panbike.gr
Top Speed
38 mph (61km/h) on the Krka Loop Ride
Silliest Thing I did
Flip over a turtle
Most Frightening Moment
1. Sliding down the cliff while trying to climb Mt. Enos
3. Bungee jumping the first time
100+ km days
7
5 things I’d do again
1. Plitvicka Jezera National Park
2. Krka National Park
3. Bungee jump over the Corinth Canal
4. Kayak in the Ionian Sea
5. The whole idea
5 Things I’d do if I could do it over again
1. Not get my passport stolen
2. Not reschedule parts of my dream trip
3. Learn psi vs bar
4. Ship 50lbs back to the US
5. Bring a better tent
5 favorite views from the trip
1. Anywhere in Plitvicka Jezera, Croatia
2. Overlooking Myrtos Beach, Kefalonia, Greece
3. Sitting in the park at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens
4. The stars in Mreznicki Brig, Croatia
5. The gorge we went through on the train ride back to Belgrade, Serbia
5 most annoying people (or groups)
5. The French people sitting on the stairs at Perahora who got pissed when I wanted to walk down the only way to the site.
4. Family who made me walk the speed of their 5 year old most of the way down from Manta Pec in Paklenica.
3. Serbian Guy at the Information booth in Belgrade Train Station who told me there were no ATMs or Bankomats in Belgrade.
2. The guy who stole my passport.
1. The American woman who had to be talked into the 3 more euros to go to the museum at Olympia. Site – 6 euros; Site+Museum – 9 euros. She didn’t want to waste 3 euros to see the best collection of marble statues in Greece. And, she probably wonders why Europeans think Americans are idiots.
Money I made it home with
7 CHF - $6.56
180 ISK - $1.43
30 SEK - $4.19
10.45 HRK - $2.04
15 euro cents - $0.21
167 SRD - $2.89
Total - $17.32
Best Picture:
Akrata Beach Sunset
 |
| From Vrachati - Akrata |
Best Pic of Me:
1. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia
 |
| From mmm...maybe not |
2. Bungee Jump at the Sibenik Bridge, Croatia
 |
| From One Short Ride |
Silliest Pic
Monkey Men
 |
| From Katelios |
Best Group Picture
Atreus
 |
| From Argoloid 2 |
Alas, I have now returned from the trip and look to the next step in life.
Tino Pai,
Jesse…
Rheinfall and Hike (8/4/09)
Distance: 7 miles
Trip: Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall – Andelfingen
Sites: Rheinfall, Rhine River, Sunflower and corn fields
Difficulty: Easy
View Rheinfall Hike in a larger map
So I really wanted to climb a mountain pass in Switzerland. But, I was convinced to go see the Rheinfall. And, they were right, it was incredible!
I took the train out to Schloss Laufen (which, of course, was being repaired). Then down to the docks where you can catch a boat to the falls and stand on an outcropping amidst them. They are like a short Niagara Falls – anybody traveling to Northern Switzerland is implored to see them.
After seeing the falls, I set out on my hike. I walked down the Rhine for the first hour and then broke off following a path through the corn and sunflower fields.
Nothing terribly exciting and definitely I’d do it next time in the other direction so that the falls are the end rather than beginning of the trip.
Trip: Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall – Andelfingen
Sites: Rheinfall, Rhine River, Sunflower and corn fields
Difficulty: Easy
View Rheinfall Hike in a larger map
So I really wanted to climb a mountain pass in Switzerland. But, I was convinced to go see the Rheinfall. And, they were right, it was incredible!
I took the train out to Schloss Laufen (which, of course, was being repaired). Then down to the docks where you can catch a boat to the falls and stand on an outcropping amidst them. They are like a short Niagara Falls – anybody traveling to Northern Switzerland is implored to see them.
After seeing the falls, I set out on my hike. I walked down the Rhine for the first hour and then broke off following a path through the corn and sunflower fields.
 |
| Rhine - Switzerland left, Germany right |
Nothing terribly exciting and definitely I’d do it next time in the other direction so that the falls are the end rather than beginning of the trip.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Hiking the Mouse that Roared (8/1/09)
View Liechtenstein Hike in a larger map
Trip: Vaduz – Gaflei – Vaduz
Starting Altitude: 450 meters
Highest Point: 1509 meters
 |
| Vaduz Castle - the Prince still lives here |
When I was about 8, I remember reading this book called “Europe of Yesterday and Today.” It was from the 1960s (being an American school library book). Each country in Western Europe was individually profiled. It led me to read further books in the series: “Germany of Yesterday and Today” and “France of Yesterday and Today.”
But what really interested me was the nation of Liechtenstein. It was a tiny principality that had fewer people than my neighborhood in Atlanta. Its entire army was made up of 14 policemen. Its major connection with the world outside was its postage stamps. My father had me watch the movie The Mouse that Roared because of my interest.
I decided that day I was going to see Liechtenstein one day. It was one of those things that would always be on my lifelong list.
Raphael kept telling me I was crazy: “Liechtenstein sucks.” But, I was going to do it damn it. And when I was in Zurich the first time, we had planned to make a side trip. That hadn’t worked out, but now I was doing it.
I took the train from Zurich to Sargans (near the border). From there I took a “Liechtenstein Bus” into Vaduz.
 |
| Gaflei, Liechtenstein |
Admittedly, there really isn’t anything to do in Liechtenstein. So, I figured I’d hike up into the Alps.
I made my way from Vaduz and past the Vaduz Castle. And then up and up and up until the village of Gaflei – 1509 meters. So the net gain was over 1000 meters. And, I did it carrying all my camping equipment. Of course I regretted carrying all the equipment once I couldn’t get a camp site on the Walensee.
The views of the Alps – Swiss, Austrian and Liechtenstein(ian?) were absolutely amazing. If I had more time I would have hiked even higher, but alas I had to get to those campgrounds to not get a site.
Trapped in Serbia (7/26 -7/29/09)
I was sweating from both the heat inside the police station and the unknown process that lay ahead of me. As I sat in the waiting area in the hallway, I watched as cop after cop walked out of the office taking a drag from their cigarettes right at the “No Smoking” sign.
When I had been given my emergency passport, the embassy woman told me: “Now you have to go back to the foreigners’ office at the police station and get a stamp for you new passport.”
Dutifully, I went down to the office, walked into the door I had entered two evenings before and announced the situation, “Hey, I need to get a stamp on my new passport.” I handed the officer behind the desk the new passport and the police report from Sunday night about the theft.
“Hold on one minute,” he said. As I stood there for a second, the officer told me: “you can wait outside.”
Crap I thought. I had not wanted to relinquish this passport to anyone – government official or not. But, alas, if this makes me leave quicker I’ll accept it. So I had gone out to wait in the hallway, watching the police smoke cigarettes past the “No Smoking” sign.
After about five minutes, the officer who had told me to wait outside came from his office. “I spoke with my colleague who filled out the initial report.”
“yes, yes” I said, “nice guy!”
“Yeas, I don’t know him well. But, he said that there is a receipt form that needs to be filed in this case. You need to return between 13 hundred and 15 hundred, Tuesday to Friday to sign this receipt form at room 44. Then you will be clear to leave our country.” He paused as I listened to him. “Do you need to write this down?”
“No, room 44, 1 to 3 tomorrow,” I said.
“Yes,” he said handing my passport. “So, tomorrow, you return to sign the receipt form?”
“Da,” I smiled knowing that I had no intention of ever returning to this police station if I could help it.
*******
As long as I was on my bike, I had had no issues. I mean were basic problems dealing with my complete lack of knowledge of the local language – Greek, Italian or Croatian. And, I had had the minor problem entering Italy. But, it wasn’t until I got into Serbia without my bike (selling it in Zagreb) that the shit hit the fan.
On Saturday, July 25, I left Zagreb for a grueling train trip across the Balkans. I had to take a bus from Camp-Plitvice into Zagreb, change to a tram into the center and then get onto a train to Belgrade; change in Belgrade for the train to Sofia. Once in Sofia I had eight hours to make my way from the train station to the airport.
Part one of the trip went off without a hitch – except for having to run for the bus into the tram station. I got onto the train to Beograd and was off to catch my plane into Sofia.
So I went to dinner in Belgrade. Then I got the night train to Sofia.
That’s where the shit hit the fan.
At the stop before the border, I was awoken by people entering my compartment. That’s when I realized what happened. My bag was gone. In the bag were several important items.
1. Train ticket
2. Jesse Bear
3. Writing Journal
4. Refrigerator Magnets from Greece and Croatia (and one from Italy)
5. Charger for my camera
6. Money
7. Appalachian Mountain Club Nalgene
8. Passport
9. Toiletries
Now without any of these I was stuck. The train guys and the people in my compartment helped me search the train for my bag – but to no avail. We did find the passport of a Portuguese guy who had had his bag stolen as well.
So, I had to get off the train in Dimitrovgrad – at the Bulgarian border. Then, it was the long 9 hour train trip back to Beograd. Uhnn…
Upon, return to the capital of Serbia, I tried to get a hostel room. But this requires a passport. So, I needed some document from the police in order to get a hostel room.
With directions to the police station, I scampered down the streets of Belgrade. I went into the “foreigners’ office” only to be told I needed to talk to the real cops. Well, this is when the whole thing got a little surreal.
I was led into the bowels of the Serbian police station and sat in a barren office with one guy sitting there working on a computer and smoking beneath a clearly marked “No Smoking” sign. As I sat there quietly he continued writing.
In my mind I’m thinking: “Shit, I’m deep in a Serbian Police Station and nobody knows I’m here!”
Another officer entered, giving me a dirty look and handed the smoking man some forms to sign. Smoking man signs the forms slowly and deliberately, glancing toward me every now and then but no actually acknowledging me.
Finally he’s done signing the forms and the other officer leaves. I sit there quietly for a second and then say: “You know, I don’t have to report the money if it would make things easier…”
“I am investigative detective [didn’t catch the name]. I am in charge of investigation for this station. Now, how much money was lost?”
My goal had been to make the money as unimportant as possible. All I really wanted was a piece of paper saying my passport was stolen so that I could get a hostel bed: “280 euros.” (It was really 580).
“Let me see you’re papers.”
So I handed him my state ID and my Harvard ID.
“What about you’re passport?”
“That was stolen; that’s the real reason I’m here.”
Now investigative detective didn’t-catch-his-name rolls his eyes. “Where did this happen?”
“On the train going to Sofia.”
“At the Belgrade Station?”
“No, no near the Bulgarian border.”
Well, this back and forth continues for a while, whilst he attempts to ascertain how it was this Yankee was sitting at his desk. Finally, I was able to get all the information to him. He checks on me over the phone calling me “Yankee scum” several times.
“What is you’re employment?”
“Oh, I’m a teacher and a writer.”
“Hmmm…are you sure you are not a spy?”
“Pretty sure.”
“Because, you know: You bomb us in ‘99.”
Aww…fuck, this is something I hoped wouldn’t have come up.
“All Serbians assume all Americans are spies. And in Belgrade they do not like Panathenikos, we are Olympicos fans here.”
So, I took off my hat and then tried to explain that I probably wouldn’t be there if I were a spy. But this really didn’t help much.
So, after two hours in the Serbian police station, I finally get my police report stating that my passport was stolen and I returned to the hostel. The woman takes my report begrudgingly and gives me my room assignment. I go to the room drop off my shit and go to the internet café to get some help.
So, I spent the next two days in Belgrade just wandering around the city and waiting for my new passport to get straightened out. I had issues, in that Belgradians do no like Americans – at all. But to be fair “You bomb us in ’99.”
Then on Tuesday, I finally got everything in order and had my new passport! Yay! The passport office then sent me to the Police Office to get my new “entry stamp” that would allow me to leave Serbia – that’s when the officer told me to return the next day, yeah right.
On Wednesday, I flew out of Serbia to Zurich – finally leaving the country without Ainje.
When I had been given my emergency passport, the embassy woman told me: “Now you have to go back to the foreigners’ office at the police station and get a stamp for you new passport.”
Dutifully, I went down to the office, walked into the door I had entered two evenings before and announced the situation, “Hey, I need to get a stamp on my new passport.” I handed the officer behind the desk the new passport and the police report from Sunday night about the theft.
“Hold on one minute,” he said. As I stood there for a second, the officer told me: “you can wait outside.”
Crap I thought. I had not wanted to relinquish this passport to anyone – government official or not. But, alas, if this makes me leave quicker I’ll accept it. So I had gone out to wait in the hallway, watching the police smoke cigarettes past the “No Smoking” sign.
After about five minutes, the officer who had told me to wait outside came from his office. “I spoke with my colleague who filled out the initial report.”
“yes, yes” I said, “nice guy!”
“Yeas, I don’t know him well. But, he said that there is a receipt form that needs to be filed in this case. You need to return between 13 hundred and 15 hundred, Tuesday to Friday to sign this receipt form at room 44. Then you will be clear to leave our country.” He paused as I listened to him. “Do you need to write this down?”
“No, room 44, 1 to 3 tomorrow,” I said.
“Yes,” he said handing my passport. “So, tomorrow, you return to sign the receipt form?”
“Da,” I smiled knowing that I had no intention of ever returning to this police station if I could help it.
*******
As long as I was on my bike, I had had no issues. I mean were basic problems dealing with my complete lack of knowledge of the local language – Greek, Italian or Croatian. And, I had had the minor problem entering Italy. But, it wasn’t until I got into Serbia without my bike (selling it in Zagreb) that the shit hit the fan.
On Saturday, July 25, I left Zagreb for a grueling train trip across the Balkans. I had to take a bus from Camp-Plitvice into Zagreb, change to a tram into the center and then get onto a train to Belgrade; change in Belgrade for the train to Sofia. Once in Sofia I had eight hours to make my way from the train station to the airport.
Part one of the trip went off without a hitch – except for having to run for the bus into the tram station. I got onto the train to Beograd and was off to catch my plane into Sofia.
So I went to dinner in Belgrade. Then I got the night train to Sofia.
That’s where the shit hit the fan.
At the stop before the border, I was awoken by people entering my compartment. That’s when I realized what happened. My bag was gone. In the bag were several important items.
1. Train ticket
2. Jesse Bear
3. Writing Journal
4. Refrigerator Magnets from Greece and Croatia (and one from Italy)
5. Charger for my camera
6. Money
7. Appalachian Mountain Club Nalgene
8. Passport
9. Toiletries
Now without any of these I was stuck. The train guys and the people in my compartment helped me search the train for my bag – but to no avail. We did find the passport of a Portuguese guy who had had his bag stolen as well.
So, I had to get off the train in Dimitrovgrad – at the Bulgarian border. Then, it was the long 9 hour train trip back to Beograd. Uhnn…
Upon, return to the capital of Serbia, I tried to get a hostel room. But this requires a passport. So, I needed some document from the police in order to get a hostel room.
With directions to the police station, I scampered down the streets of Belgrade. I went into the “foreigners’ office” only to be told I needed to talk to the real cops. Well, this is when the whole thing got a little surreal.
I was led into the bowels of the Serbian police station and sat in a barren office with one guy sitting there working on a computer and smoking beneath a clearly marked “No Smoking” sign. As I sat there quietly he continued writing.
In my mind I’m thinking: “Shit, I’m deep in a Serbian Police Station and nobody knows I’m here!”
Another officer entered, giving me a dirty look and handed the smoking man some forms to sign. Smoking man signs the forms slowly and deliberately, glancing toward me every now and then but no actually acknowledging me.
Finally he’s done signing the forms and the other officer leaves. I sit there quietly for a second and then say: “You know, I don’t have to report the money if it would make things easier…”
“I am investigative detective [didn’t catch the name]. I am in charge of investigation for this station. Now, how much money was lost?”
My goal had been to make the money as unimportant as possible. All I really wanted was a piece of paper saying my passport was stolen so that I could get a hostel bed: “280 euros.” (It was really 580).
“Let me see you’re papers.”
So I handed him my state ID and my Harvard ID.
“What about you’re passport?”
“That was stolen; that’s the real reason I’m here.”
Now investigative detective didn’t-catch-his-name rolls his eyes. “Where did this happen?”
“On the train going to Sofia.”
“At the Belgrade Station?”
“No, no near the Bulgarian border.”
Well, this back and forth continues for a while, whilst he attempts to ascertain how it was this Yankee was sitting at his desk. Finally, I was able to get all the information to him. He checks on me over the phone calling me “Yankee scum” several times.
“What is you’re employment?”
“Oh, I’m a teacher and a writer.”
“Hmmm…are you sure you are not a spy?”
“Pretty sure.”
“Because, you know: You bomb us in ‘99.”
Aww…fuck, this is something I hoped wouldn’t have come up.
“All Serbians assume all Americans are spies. And in Belgrade they do not like Panathenikos, we are Olympicos fans here.”
So, I took off my hat and then tried to explain that I probably wouldn’t be there if I were a spy. But this really didn’t help much.
So, after two hours in the Serbian police station, I finally get my police report stating that my passport was stolen and I returned to the hostel. The woman takes my report begrudgingly and gives me my room assignment. I go to the room drop off my shit and go to the internet café to get some help.
So, I spent the next two days in Belgrade just wandering around the city and waiting for my new passport to get straightened out. I had issues, in that Belgradians do no like Americans – at all. But to be fair “You bomb us in ’99.”
Then on Tuesday, I finally got everything in order and had my new passport! Yay! The passport office then sent me to the Police Office to get my new “entry stamp” that would allow me to leave Serbia – that’s when the officer told me to return the next day, yeah right.
On Wednesday, I flew out of Serbia to Zurich – finally leaving the country without Ainje.
Monday, July 27, 2009
The even Worster Day of Bikespedition (7/26/09)
 |
| Dimitrograd, where I got kicked off the train |
Well, I was awoken at the Bulgarian border. Unfortunately, my bag with ticket to Sofia and my passport is gone.
The train guys and my fellow passengers tried to help me find it. No luck.
Got kicked off the train. Had to wait in Dimitriovgrad for 6 hours for the next train to Belgrade (eight hours away).
Next I had to go into the bowels of a Serbian police station to get a paper saying my passport and money were stolen.
Oh god!
Standing all the way to Belgrade (7/25/09)
Got a country song for this train ride:
Watching Croatian fields pass by me
Heading somewhere you won't be.
Cuz I'm standing all the way to Belgrade
Leaving Zagreb on a one way train.
Sweden won't be the same without you
its so hard if you only knew.
Cuz I'm standing all the way to Belgrade,
Leaving Zagreb on a one way train.
(Now if I can work in a dead dog and a waitress at a road house - I got a hit).
Did meet two cool people on the train. Anije, the Slovenian getting a phd comparative lit and a chain smoking Croatian truck driver.
He says we should get together and I can't leave Serbia without her.
Anije and I got dinner in Belgrade and I hopped the train to Sofia - leaving Serbia without her.
Watching Croatian fields pass by me
Heading somewhere you won't be.
Cuz I'm standing all the way to Belgrade
Leaving Zagreb on a one way train.
Sweden won't be the same without you
its so hard if you only knew.
Cuz I'm standing all the way to Belgrade,
Leaving Zagreb on a one way train.
(Now if I can work in a dead dog and a waitress at a road house - I got a hit).
Did meet two cool people on the train. Anije, the Slovenian getting a phd comparative lit and a chain smoking Croatian truck driver.
He says we should get together and I can't leave Serbia without her.
Anije and I got dinner in Belgrade and I hopped the train to Sofia - leaving Serbia without her.
Zagreb: Schwarzfahrer to Schwarzfahrer (7/25/09)
Trip: Into Zagreb
Distance: 23 miles
Sights: Beautiful Zagreb
Miles in Croatia: 591
Miles in Bikespedition - 2009: 1501
Well, it was time to say good bye to Schwarzfahrer. I went into Zagreb, found a guy who would by him. I asked if I could ride the bike another 3 miles. He asked why; I explained then I'd be at 1500 miles. he laughed and said yeah - but he wouldn't pay anything until I came back.
Zagreb is a beautiful city. I don't know what everybody was talking about.
Got the tram back but couldn't figure out how to buy a ticket. Now I'm a fare-dadger or "schwarzfahrer"
Distance: 23 miles
Sights: Beautiful Zagreb
Miles in Croatia: 591
Miles in Bikespedition - 2009: 1501
Well, it was time to say good bye to Schwarzfahrer. I went into Zagreb, found a guy who would by him. I asked if I could ride the bike another 3 miles. He asked why; I explained then I'd be at 1500 miles. he laughed and said yeah - but he wouldn't pay anything until I came back.
Zagreb is a beautiful city. I don't know what everybody was talking about.
Got the tram back but couldn't figure out how to buy a ticket. Now I'm a fare-dadger or "schwarzfahrer"
 |
| mmmm. Lashko Dark! |
Worst Day of Bikespedition (7/23/09)
Trip: Duga Resa to Zagreb
Distance: 78 miles
Difficulty: Impossible
Sights: Not much
Miles in Croatia: 568
Miles in Bikespedition-2009: 1478
Time: 10:15
Location: Camp Slapic, Duga Resa
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 55 km
Miles cycled: 0
Easy day in front of me all I have to do is cycle through the valleys 55 km and get to my next camp. I tried to check my email then I was off! (My stupid computer wouldn't start!)
Time: 11:15
Location: Karlovac Grad
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 45 km
Miles cycled: 8
After many vague directions, I finally found my way to an internet cafe in Karlovac. Now only 45 km to go.
Time: 12:15
Location: Hills outside Karlovac
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 50km
Miles Cycled: 18
I don't think this is the right road, I keep going around in circles by this church!
Time; 13:15
Location: ???
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: ???
Miles Cycled: 26
Now, I'm definitely lost. Stopped for water and a square.
Time: 13:45
Location: ????
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: ???
Miles Cycled: 32
Well, that same church is over there now. I can't get to it. Hey - a sign to Karlovac. Well, I can go back and start over.
Time: 14:30
Location: Karlovac
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 45 km
Miles Cycled: 37
Now back in Karlovac, got a map; got directions from one of the window washing girls to the road I need. "That way, in autobahn go left." (hope she meant "at autobahn.")
Time: 15:30
Location: Beneciti
Distance from Camp, Plitvice, Zagreb: 35 km
Miles Cycled: 47
Whew! finally on the right road to Zagreb. (As an fyi "Zagrad and Zagreb are different places.
Time: 16:15
Location: Ceglje
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 28 km
Miles Cycled: 51
Stopped for water and a square outside a farm. Heard a weird "pop!" as I rode away; but the bike seems okay.
Time: 17:00
Location: Jastrebarsko
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 21 km
Miles Cycled: 55
This last stage has been a whole lot of work, I don't get it. Oh, the trailer is broken! Its only be held together by a single pin and pure habit. Well, take these last hills slowly.
Time: 18:30
Location: Lucko
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 5km
Miles Cycled: 68
You know you're in trouble when the directions you get include the question: "Can you ride that thing over a field?"
Well, I'll finish my Karlovacko and watch Xena in Croatian before I ride across the field.
Time: 19:00
Location: Lucko
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 3km
Distance Cycled: 73
I rode through the field.
Still lost. The two women are arguing about directions. The guy is drawing directions. None of them speak English. Good he's done.
It involves riding through the woods.
Time: 19:30
Location: on the other side of the fence from Camp Plitvice
Distance from Camp Plitvice: 5 meters
Distance Cycled: 77
I get it. You can only really get there from the highway. I've ridden through the woods, over the field, forded a river. Now I have to take the whole shabang apart and throw it over the fence!
Time: 21:30
Location: Camp Plitvice
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: -
Distance Cycled: 78
After all that riding, off roading and stroganoff, I'm exhausted! I'm gonna sleep well to...
Distance: 78 miles
Difficulty: Impossible
Sights: Not much
Miles in Croatia: 568
Miles in Bikespedition-2009: 1478
Time: 10:15
Location: Camp Slapic, Duga Resa
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 55 km
Miles cycled: 0
Easy day in front of me all I have to do is cycle through the valleys 55 km and get to my next camp. I tried to check my email then I was off! (My stupid computer wouldn't start!)
Time: 11:15
Location: Karlovac Grad
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 45 km
Miles cycled: 8
After many vague directions, I finally found my way to an internet cafe in Karlovac. Now only 45 km to go.
Time: 12:15
Location: Hills outside Karlovac
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 50km
Miles Cycled: 18
I don't think this is the right road, I keep going around in circles by this church!
Time; 13:15
Location: ???
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: ???
Miles Cycled: 26
Now, I'm definitely lost. Stopped for water and a square.
Time: 13:45
Location: ????
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: ???
Miles Cycled: 32
Well, that same church is over there now. I can't get to it. Hey - a sign to Karlovac. Well, I can go back and start over.
Time: 14:30
Location: Karlovac
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 45 km
Miles Cycled: 37
Now back in Karlovac, got a map; got directions from one of the window washing girls to the road I need. "That way, in autobahn go left." (hope she meant "at autobahn.")
Time: 15:30
Location: Beneciti
Distance from Camp, Plitvice, Zagreb: 35 km
Miles Cycled: 47
Whew! finally on the right road to Zagreb. (As an fyi "Zagrad and Zagreb are different places.
Time: 16:15
Location: Ceglje
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 28 km
Miles Cycled: 51
Stopped for water and a square outside a farm. Heard a weird "pop!" as I rode away; but the bike seems okay.
Time: 17:00
Location: Jastrebarsko
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 21 km
Miles Cycled: 55
This last stage has been a whole lot of work, I don't get it. Oh, the trailer is broken! Its only be held together by a single pin and pure habit. Well, take these last hills slowly.
Time: 18:30
Location: Lucko
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 5km
Miles Cycled: 68
You know you're in trouble when the directions you get include the question: "Can you ride that thing over a field?"
Well, I'll finish my Karlovacko and watch Xena in Croatian before I ride across the field.
Time: 19:00
Location: Lucko
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: 3km
Distance Cycled: 73
I rode through the field.
Still lost. The two women are arguing about directions. The guy is drawing directions. None of them speak English. Good he's done.
It involves riding through the woods.
Time: 19:30
Location: on the other side of the fence from Camp Plitvice
Distance from Camp Plitvice: 5 meters
Distance Cycled: 77
I get it. You can only really get there from the highway. I've ridden through the woods, over the field, forded a river. Now I have to take the whole shabang apart and throw it over the fence!
Time: 21:30
Location: Camp Plitvice
Distance from Camp Plitvice, Zagreb: -
Distance Cycled: 78
After all that riding, off roading and stroganoff, I'm exhausted! I'm gonna sleep well to...
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Almost a Canoe (7/21/09)
 |
| From Karlovac |
ME PADDLING
They apparently don’t have another name but “wooden boats.” But, they rent them here at Kamp Slapic. So I rented one for an hour. They are kind of like Adirondack Guide Boats – just without the rowing part that makes the Adirondack Guide Boat awesome. So you sit in the back and paddle. It,s like trying to steer a truck by pushing the sides.
I saw the river here. And I got to run one small rapid – Jesse Bear was knocked from his chair (not into the water though)!
Well for self propelled boats I now have:
Kayak;
Canoe;
Dragon Boat;
Rowboat; and,
Croatian Wooden Boat.
 |
| From Karlovac |
RIVER
10 Things To Do In Karlovac When You’re Lost (7/21/09)
 |
| From Karlovac |
JESSE BEAR IN THE SQUARE
Trip: Around Karlovac City, Croatia
Distance: 31 miles
Difficulty: Easy
Sights: The Karlovacko Brewery, Old Town Karlovac
Miles in Croatia: 483
Total Miles for Bikespedition-2009: 1393
1. Follow a random bike lane – because I haven’t seen one in 3 months
2. Try to read the signs about native birds in the Arboretum – the English wasn’t much easier than the Croatian
3. Tour the projects – what did Gabe say once: “Oh, I know projects when I see them.” I left the Arboretum and there I was; had a nice tour trying to get out of them.
4. Count how many times you cross the Korana River – 8
5. Jump from the 10m high platform into said Korana River – I worked my way up from the 3 to the 5 to the 10.
 |
| From Karlovac |
THE DIVING PLATFORM
6. Try to get a tour of the Karlovacko Brewery – apparently they don’t do that.
7. Have a Karlovacko outside the market across the street from the Karlovacko Brewery – selling beer at the brewery is something they don’t do either.
8. Take pictures of your stuffed bear while guys drinking Karlovacko outside the market across the street from the Karlovacko Brewery stare at you – that must have been a new one for them.
9. Try to get to the castle – I never did find it.
10. Sit on a tank.
 |
| From Karlovac |
ME ON A TANK
Downhill, Easy Day? (7/20/09)
Trip: Plitvicka Jezera National Park to Duga Resa, Croatia
Distance: 54 miles
Difficulty: Easy
Sights: not much
Miles in Croatia: 452
Total Miles for Bikespedition-2009: 1362
I had planned the thing so well. After Plitvicka Jezera, I would make my way to Karlovac and then onto Zagreb for my train to Sofia (man – I should have bought my plane ticket from Zagreb!). AND, today was today was downhill!
Well, the cycling was still easy, it was the packing up Camp Jesse while the Karlovacko beers and four shots of rakia still rung through my head, that was the real problem! My record for packing up is 45 minutes – today it took 2 hours. The Croatian army guy I met at the internet café, wanted to talk all about the US and how Croatia is the US’s butt-kisser. It was not until there were shots of rakia coming out that I realized it was a bad idea.
Well, the best cure for a hangover might be riding your bike through the heat of Croatia at mid day, because by the time I made it to Duga Resa and Kamp Slapic, I felt great. The Kamp lies on a river in some falls and rapids with a great swimming hole connected to it. The strange part was crossing the river over obviously a military pontoon bridge – Schwarzfahrer didn’t like that at all!
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Distance: 54 miles
Difficulty: Easy
Sights: not much
Miles in Croatia: 452
Total Miles for Bikespedition-2009: 1362
I had planned the thing so well. After Plitvicka Jezera, I would make my way to Karlovac and then onto Zagreb for my train to Sofia (man – I should have bought my plane ticket from Zagreb!). AND, today was today was downhill!
Well, the cycling was still easy, it was the packing up Camp Jesse while the Karlovacko beers and four shots of rakia still rung through my head, that was the real problem! My record for packing up is 45 minutes – today it took 2 hours. The Croatian army guy I met at the internet café, wanted to talk all about the US and how Croatia is the US’s butt-kisser. It was not until there were shots of rakia coming out that I realized it was a bad idea.
 |
| From Karlovac |
Well, the best cure for a hangover might be riding your bike through the heat of Croatia at mid day, because by the time I made it to Duga Resa and Kamp Slapic, I felt great. The Kamp lies on a river in some falls and rapids with a great swimming hole connected to it. The strange part was crossing the river over obviously a military pontoon bridge – Schwarzfahrer didn’t like that at all!
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Chasing Waterfalls - not sticking to rivers or lakes that I'm used to (7/19/09)
Plitvicka Jezera National Park
Plitvicka Jezera National Park
Trip: AutoCamp Korana – Plitvicka Jezera National Park
Cycling: 8 miles
Hiking: 4 hours
Rowboat: 1 hour
Cycling in Croatia: 392 miles
Cycling on Bikespedition-2009: 1302 miles
As I took the tourist boat along the largest lake in the park, all I could think was “Wow this would be cool to travel on kayak.” Along the edges of the lake there were a great many waterfalls, as the water from the higher lakes came down to this one. However, the tourist boat didn’t get real close to them.
When I got to the other side of the lake, I saw that they did rent boats. They were rowboats! Now, if you have seen the guys in the shells on the Charles, rowing looks like hard work but it doesn’t look like the actual process is hard. Well, you’d be wrong. I got an hour on the rowboat for 50 kuna (€7, $10). What I really got was about 40 minutes as it took me 20 minutes to figure out how to begin to do it. (kept going in circles and almost dropping the oars). Once I did get it, it was great. Now, I won’t be trading in the UNS Aral Sea for a rowboat anytime soon, but still.
Plitvicka Jezera is a series of 14 or so lakes in the mountains of Croatia. The Korana River runs into these lakes at around 550 meters above sea level and then drops over beautiful waterfalls into the next, until you get to the last lake which is like 300 meters above sea level. These waterfalls create travertine build ups as the limestone and dolomite react with water and carbon dioxide. This means that the waterfalls are dynamic, constantly drying up and creating new falls. I’m a waterfall fanatic; Plitvicka is to that what Hawaii is to surfers.
I got out of Camp Korana by 9:30, as I had planned and a short bike ride took me to Ulaz 1 (entrance 1). I got in line to get into the park at 10:15. I got into the park at 11:05. Now, I’m pretty sure what took so long was people’s stupidity. There were two signs while we were in line that boiled down to: “Kuna only, no Euros” in four languages Croatian, English, Italian and German. The French in front of me apparently ignored the signs or couldn’t make out the Italian well enough. Because they kept trying to pay in euros! It took the Italian family behind me 2 or 3 minutes of yelling at the French family in Italio-franglais to move out of the way for those of us who had brought Kuna while the husband was going to the exchange counter.
Well, once in it was worth the long wait. The park has set up “itineraries” for the park. So from Ulaz 1 if you take Itinerary C you can see all the lakes and most of the waterfalls. I hiked along “C” from the Ulaz to the port from the Electric tourist boat that takes you across the largest lake. Then, I went up a smaller trail above the falls from some great views down into the canyon.
I then retraced my steps to the port. There I got a beer and some French fries to go with one of the sandwiches I’d brought. At the next table, I ran into the German family, with whom I’d toured Barac’s Caves two days before. They too had stayed an extra day when it rained on the day between.
Then it was time for my trip across the lake. It’s quite odd; I haven’t been on a boat that wasn’t a kayak in years – other than that ferry over Lake Konstantz, but I come to Europe and I’ve taken the ferry from Killini to Kefalonia, Argostoli-Luxori and back, Kefalonia to Patra, Patra to Ancona, Ancona to Split and Skradin to Skradinski Buk; and now number 8 (“There is now a ferry involved.”). When I saw people in rowboats I took a ninth across to Ulaz 2 where they rented the rowboats and a tenth to get back on Itinerary C.
While the whole park is absolutely beautiful, it is the winding boardwalk trail through this middle section that takes the cake. Amongst old trees, waterfalls that look like something on a Hollywood soundstage appear. Each one you think is the most beautiful thing you’ve ever seen, until you see the next one.
The itinerary winds up with a trip through the woods on the panoramic train/bus. It’s a bus with little cars like a train and 360 degrees of windows. Unfortunately, it’s similar to taking the Greyhound through the hills of Western Pennsylvania – just trees. How can you keep them on the farm, when they’ve seen Paris?
I hopped on to Schwarzfahrer and went back to the AutoCamp. I then planned to upload pictures at the internet café, only to run into some Croatians who wanted to discuss America and Iraq. The beers flowed for a while, then there was the rakia – but that’s a whole other story.
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
 |
| From Plitvicka Jezera |
Plitvicka Jezera National Park
Trip: AutoCamp Korana – Plitvicka Jezera National Park
Cycling: 8 miles
Hiking: 4 hours
Rowboat: 1 hour
Cycling in Croatia: 392 miles
Cycling on Bikespedition-2009: 1302 miles
As I took the tourist boat along the largest lake in the park, all I could think was “Wow this would be cool to travel on kayak.” Along the edges of the lake there were a great many waterfalls, as the water from the higher lakes came down to this one. However, the tourist boat didn’t get real close to them.
When I got to the other side of the lake, I saw that they did rent boats. They were rowboats! Now, if you have seen the guys in the shells on the Charles, rowing looks like hard work but it doesn’t look like the actual process is hard. Well, you’d be wrong. I got an hour on the rowboat for 50 kuna (€7, $10). What I really got was about 40 minutes as it took me 20 minutes to figure out how to begin to do it. (kept going in circles and almost dropping the oars). Once I did get it, it was great. Now, I won’t be trading in the UNS Aral Sea for a rowboat anytime soon, but still.
Plitvicka Jezera is a series of 14 or so lakes in the mountains of Croatia. The Korana River runs into these lakes at around 550 meters above sea level and then drops over beautiful waterfalls into the next, until you get to the last lake which is like 300 meters above sea level. These waterfalls create travertine build ups as the limestone and dolomite react with water and carbon dioxide. This means that the waterfalls are dynamic, constantly drying up and creating new falls. I’m a waterfall fanatic; Plitvicka is to that what Hawaii is to surfers.
I got out of Camp Korana by 9:30, as I had planned and a short bike ride took me to Ulaz 1 (entrance 1). I got in line to get into the park at 10:15. I got into the park at 11:05. Now, I’m pretty sure what took so long was people’s stupidity. There were two signs while we were in line that boiled down to: “Kuna only, no Euros” in four languages Croatian, English, Italian and German. The French in front of me apparently ignored the signs or couldn’t make out the Italian well enough. Because they kept trying to pay in euros! It took the Italian family behind me 2 or 3 minutes of yelling at the French family in Italio-franglais to move out of the way for those of us who had brought Kuna while the husband was going to the exchange counter.
Well, once in it was worth the long wait. The park has set up “itineraries” for the park. So from Ulaz 1 if you take Itinerary C you can see all the lakes and most of the waterfalls. I hiked along “C” from the Ulaz to the port from the Electric tourist boat that takes you across the largest lake. Then, I went up a smaller trail above the falls from some great views down into the canyon.
I then retraced my steps to the port. There I got a beer and some French fries to go with one of the sandwiches I’d brought. At the next table, I ran into the German family, with whom I’d toured Barac’s Caves two days before. They too had stayed an extra day when it rained on the day between.
Then it was time for my trip across the lake. It’s quite odd; I haven’t been on a boat that wasn’t a kayak in years – other than that ferry over Lake Konstantz, but I come to Europe and I’ve taken the ferry from Killini to Kefalonia, Argostoli-Luxori and back, Kefalonia to Patra, Patra to Ancona, Ancona to Split and Skradin to Skradinski Buk; and now number 8 (“There is now a ferry involved.”). When I saw people in rowboats I took a ninth across to Ulaz 2 where they rented the rowboats and a tenth to get back on Itinerary C.
While the whole park is absolutely beautiful, it is the winding boardwalk trail through this middle section that takes the cake. Amongst old trees, waterfalls that look like something on a Hollywood soundstage appear. Each one you think is the most beautiful thing you’ve ever seen, until you see the next one.
The itinerary winds up with a trip through the woods on the panoramic train/bus. It’s a bus with little cars like a train and 360 degrees of windows. Unfortunately, it’s similar to taking the Greyhound through the hills of Western Pennsylvania – just trees. How can you keep them on the farm, when they’ve seen Paris?
I hopped on to Schwarzfahrer and went back to the AutoCamp. I then planned to upload pictures at the internet café, only to run into some Croatians who wanted to discuss America and Iraq. The beers flowed for a while, then there was the rakia – but that’s a whole other story.
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
 |
| From Plitvicka Jezera |
 |
| From Plitvicka Jezera |
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Another Cave, Another Castle, Another Country (7/17/09)
Trip: Around Plitvicke Jezera
Distance: 56.1 miles
Difficulty: HARD
Sights: Barac's Caves, Croatian Countryside, Bosnia
Miles in Croatia: 366
Miles in Bosnia: 10
Total Miles for Bikespedition-2009: 1276
It seemed so simple. Just go to the cave, then follow the road from the cave to Bosnia. Then I figured I’d spend the rest of the day in Bosnia. Oh, the plans of mice and men.
I left Barac’s Cave, (Splendid cave, by the way, another MUST see for that list I keep giving you.) and headed down the road that my cycling map told me took me to Bosnia (one town only 21 km away). Well, I rode down it; then it turned to gravel; and then it turned dirt. As I went, I noticed that the tufts of grass in the middle of the road were getting wider and wider – I sure sign of lack of use. Well, this road did almost make it. I came to the dry Korana river and there was no bridge to Bosnia. There obviously had been one before, but not any more. I don’t know if it was destroyed in the war or after since it wasn’t the same country anymore and they wanted to limit the crossing points.
Well, that’s okay there are two other routes to Bosnia on my cycling map. So I started on the next one. Sure enough the same thing started happening. The tufts got wider and wider. Well, I knew something was up and was about to turn around when a huge gate over the road stopped me. Apparently there was no passing on this road because . . . wait for it . . . THE ROAD WAS MINED!
Now, sure the road is a minefield. I’ll accept that. And of course they don’t want people riding/driving on it – there being landmines and all. What I don’t get is why my cycling map from 2006 would have this road with an arrow “BiH 23km.” I mean if I was making a cycling map of Boston and there were landmines on the Minuteman I wouldn’t put “BEDFORD 11 miles.” I’d probably put big red X’s through saying “DON’T USE – MINEFIELDS!”
Well, on my third attempt I made it to Bosnia. You can chalk up a fourth country for Bikespedition-2009 and a sixth country I’ve visited that hasn’t given me an entry stamp [the Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg can be forgiven, since they weren’t supposed to – but Switzerland, Germany and Bosnia: I’m pissed].
(I remember the guy in Hamburg who was shocked that I had no stamps. I had to go through a long story why I didn’t get stamps in Germany or Switzerland. He accepted it begrudgingly. Then Gabe walks up and he says, “You don’t have any stamps either.” Gabe answers: “I was with HIM!” pointing to me as I walked toward the plane.)
Once I finally got to Bosnia, it was late. So I rode 5 miles in and stopped for a Bosnian beer (surprisingly good – I won’t go looking for it at the LQ or anything). I then turned around; reentered Croatia and returned to AutoCamp Korana.
Oh yeah, I saw another decaying castle. Castles/fortresses are almost ho hum now. I mean every little speck of ground has been defended by somebody at some point, some where on this continent – and we wonder why the EU has integration issues.
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Distance: 56.1 miles
Difficulty: HARD
Sights: Barac's Caves, Croatian Countryside, Bosnia
Miles in Croatia: 366
Miles in Bosnia: 10
Total Miles for Bikespedition-2009: 1276
 |
| From Another Cave |
It seemed so simple. Just go to the cave, then follow the road from the cave to Bosnia. Then I figured I’d spend the rest of the day in Bosnia. Oh, the plans of mice and men.
I left Barac’s Cave, (Splendid cave, by the way, another MUST see for that list I keep giving you.) and headed down the road that my cycling map told me took me to Bosnia (one town only 21 km away). Well, I rode down it; then it turned to gravel; and then it turned dirt. As I went, I noticed that the tufts of grass in the middle of the road were getting wider and wider – I sure sign of lack of use. Well, this road did almost make it. I came to the dry Korana river and there was no bridge to Bosnia. There obviously had been one before, but not any more. I don’t know if it was destroyed in the war or after since it wasn’t the same country anymore and they wanted to limit the crossing points.
Well, that’s okay there are two other routes to Bosnia on my cycling map. So I started on the next one. Sure enough the same thing started happening. The tufts got wider and wider. Well, I knew something was up and was about to turn around when a huge gate over the road stopped me. Apparently there was no passing on this road because . . . wait for it . . . THE ROAD WAS MINED!
Now, sure the road is a minefield. I’ll accept that. And of course they don’t want people riding/driving on it – there being landmines and all. What I don’t get is why my cycling map from 2006 would have this road with an arrow “BiH 23km.” I mean if I was making a cycling map of Boston and there were landmines on the Minuteman I wouldn’t put “BEDFORD 11 miles.” I’d probably put big red X’s through saying “DON’T USE – MINEFIELDS!”
Well, on my third attempt I made it to Bosnia. You can chalk up a fourth country for Bikespedition-2009 and a sixth country I’ve visited that hasn’t given me an entry stamp [the Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg can be forgiven, since they weren’t supposed to – but Switzerland, Germany and Bosnia: I’m pissed].
 |
| From Another Cave |
(I remember the guy in Hamburg who was shocked that I had no stamps. I had to go through a long story why I didn’t get stamps in Germany or Switzerland. He accepted it begrudgingly. Then Gabe walks up and he says, “You don’t have any stamps either.” Gabe answers: “I was with HIM!” pointing to me as I walked toward the plane.)
 |
| From Another Cave |
Once I finally got to Bosnia, it was late. So I rode 5 miles in and stopped for a Bosnian beer (surprisingly good – I won’t go looking for it at the LQ or anything). I then turned around; reentered Croatia and returned to AutoCamp Korana.
Oh yeah, I saw another decaying castle. Castles/fortresses are almost ho hum now. I mean every little speck of ground has been defended by somebody at some point, some where on this continent – and we wonder why the EU has integration issues.
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Mountains, Miles and Mines (7/16/09)
Trip: Outside Gospic, Croatia to Plitvick Jezera National Park
Distance: 40 miles
Difficulty: HARD
Sights: Mountains, Minefields
Miles in Croatia: 320
Total Miles for Bikespedition-2009: 1220
Before coming to Croatia, I was for the US signing the landmine treaty. Now, however, I am beginning to see the Pentagon’s point. I mean nobody can cross over that no man’s land if the mines are there.
Look here at Croatia. There is this lush valley that once had lots of farming and husbandry. You still see the long since decayed villages and rusted barbed wire that represented those arts. However, in this land of mountains and sandy coasts, nobody can use these lush valleys for that purpose anymore. The remaining landmines from a war 15 years ago make sure of that. Nobody’s gonna cross over that no man’s land; landmines have certainly solved the problem of a war that ended before a third of this country was born!
Other than my fear of landmines when I stopped for water there is nothing terribly exciting to report – except for Lubovo Pass. It should have been easier than the pass I went over yesterday – but the day after a metric century over the mountains kills you. Lubovo Pass is 970 meters – the highest point reached on a bike during Bikespedition-2009. The mountains were tough.
After Lubovo there were two more mountains. It was then that I realized that I lost my map and t-shirt. Well, I didn’t lose them; I know exactly where they are – at a lonely crossroads on the other side of Lubovo Pass.
The last 8 miles were a lot of fun – all down at least 5% grade to the Korana River. Then it was only slightly uphill to AC Korana (The official campsite for Plitvicke Jezera).
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Distance: 40 miles
Difficulty: HARD
Sights: Mountains, Minefields
Miles in Croatia: 320
Total Miles for Bikespedition-2009: 1220
 |
| From mmm...maybe not |
Before coming to Croatia, I was for the US signing the landmine treaty. Now, however, I am beginning to see the Pentagon’s point. I mean nobody can cross over that no man’s land if the mines are there.
Look here at Croatia. There is this lush valley that once had lots of farming and husbandry. You still see the long since decayed villages and rusted barbed wire that represented those arts. However, in this land of mountains and sandy coasts, nobody can use these lush valleys for that purpose anymore. The remaining landmines from a war 15 years ago make sure of that. Nobody’s gonna cross over that no man’s land; landmines have certainly solved the problem of a war that ended before a third of this country was born!
Other than my fear of landmines when I stopped for water there is nothing terribly exciting to report – except for Lubovo Pass. It should have been easier than the pass I went over yesterday – but the day after a metric century over the mountains kills you. Lubovo Pass is 970 meters – the highest point reached on a bike during Bikespedition-2009. The mountains were tough.
After Lubovo there were two more mountains. It was then that I realized that I lost my map and t-shirt. Well, I didn’t lose them; I know exactly where they are – at a lonely crossroads on the other side of Lubovo Pass.
 |
| From mmm...maybe not |
The last 8 miles were a lot of fun – all down at least 5% grade to the Korana River. Then it was only slightly uphill to AC Korana (The official campsite for Plitvicke Jezera).
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Mmm. . . maybe not! (7/15/09)
 |
| From mmm...maybe not |
Trip: Paklenica National Park to outside Gospic, Croatia
Distance: 65 miles
Difficulty: HARD
Sights: Velbette Nature Park, Croatian Coast
Miles in Croatia: 280
Total Miles for Bikespedition: 1180
So 100 km into my ride today, I could not find a kamp, campground or Autocamp. I determined it might be time for my first outlaw camping.
Outside of the city of Gospic, I went past a place that rented rooms above a tavern, but I was going further, maybe I could find a campground or a place to camp quasi-illegally. Fortunately, I found a map on a big board. I wondered what all that pink stuff on the map. Some of it was dark pink but other parts were light pink. Was it some sort of mosquito thing?
Oh wait, its MINE FIELDS!
Well, there goes outlaw camping!
I went back to the tavern and paid too much for the room.
Outside of the minefields, today was still the hardest day of bikespedition-2009. I did the first 30 miles in less than 3 hours. But then I had to climb from the sea to 935 meters over 14km, add to that an unknown flat on my trailer and it took 3 hours.
 |
| From mmm...maybe not |
2/3 of the way up I was dying for water. Fortunately a guy named Boris saved my life, giving me water from his house. The way down through Velbette Nature Park was beautiful and exciting. I made it down the 4 miles in 10 ½ minutes!
Tino Pai,
Jesse…
Through Dolomite and Limestone (7/14/09)
 |
| From Paklenica |
So I left my Kamp early and made my way up into the mountains to see the Paklenica National Park.
The forested area of limestone and dolomite take up 96 square kilometers. In the Velika Paklenica, there are 400 climbing routes – it might be Jim W’s dream place.
Through the millennia, water and carbon dioxide have dug marvelous caves out of the mountains. The most beautiful is Manita Pec, with four chambers.
 |
| From Paklenica |
 |
| From Paklenica |
Afterwards, I hiked about 4 hours around the park. Exhausted Jesse then returned to Kamp for some sleep.
Tino Pai,
Jesse…
No More Cowbell (7/13/09)
 |
| From No More Cowbell |
Trip: Murter to Paklenica National Park
Distance: 63 miles (101.6 km!)
Difficulty: Easy – for it being 63 miles
Sights: Maslenica Bridge, More Croatian Coast
Pedaling Time: 5 hours, 22 minutes
Elapsed Time: 7 hours, 45 minutes
Well, it was only a matter of time.
A few years ago, Greg’s old MMA – fighting roommate brought a cowbell to one of our parties. I forget why. He left it there and I had used it to announce the patriots scoring (sometimes).
Anyways, I took it Europe. “Why?” you may ask. No real reason. So I strapped this thing to the side of my trailer. It made a cool noise as I rode over bumpy roads, and warned me when I was going too slow (the pull and push of the trailer caused the cowbell to ring at around 4-5 mph).
Checking my gear on the ferry between Ancona and Split, I noticed the bell had come a bit loose. The bit that you hung it from had come off on one side. In Split, I made some adjustments, but you could tell it would come off eventually.
Sure enough, about 12 km outside of Zadar, I heard a distinct clunk and looked back just in time to see the bell get run over by a caravan with French plates.
Nothing more to report really. It was the fifth time I have done more than 100km in a day on this trip.
I’m currently at a camp outside Starigrad. Tomorrow, I’m checking out Paklenica National Park, before heading off to Plitvicka Jezera on Wednesday.
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Short Ride for Man; Another Giant Leap for Jesse Kind (7/11/09)
 |
| From One Short Ride |
Trip: Krka National Park – Jezera, Murter
Distance: 26 miles
Difficulty: Easy
Sights: Sibenik, Bungee Jumping
I don’t know how many people actually do it that way, but it is the first choice on the form.
Why are you jumping at Sibenik Bridge?
A. I saw the billboard on the road and decided to stop.
Sure enough that’s what happened. It seemed like an easy 25 mile ride to the campsite Natasha, whom I met at Argostoli Beach, told me to go to.
Well, maybe it was too easy. But, as I was going over the Sibenik Bridge at the mouth of the Krka, there was this billboard: Bungee Jump the Sibenik Bridge. When I got to the other side, there were four 20-somethings at a table with an awning and jump equipment.
“Is this your first time?”
“Nope, I did two months ago at the Corinth canal”
This one was half the price: 220 kuna versus 75 euros (I think, dollar–euro–kuna–euro–dollar go ahead). But it was half the distance 40 meters versus 79 meters (while I’m not a hundred percent what that is in feet, its at least the same thing – apples to apples and all).
They hooked me up; we walked out there and off we go. I did everything right, this time. I was ready for the weight to pull on my legs, I didn’t look down. They just started counting and boom, off I went: yelling “Tino Pai!” I even remembered to yell “Jamming on the One!” while bouncing up and down. Two people in a boat below yelled their congratulations to me.
On the way back I discussed Yellowstone with one of the Jumpmasters. He had just seen a documentary on the park.
 |
| Sibenik |
The rest of the trip was uneventful.
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Krka Loop (7/10/09)
 |
| From Krka |
Location: Krka National Park, Croatia
Distance: 38.6 miles
Difficulty: Moderate/Hard
Sights: Krka National Park
Upon return, I called it the most beautiful place, I’d ever seen in my life. From Cikada Camp it is an easy ride to Skradin. Just a few miles down the road. But just before Skradin, the road drops into the canyon. In the next one mile you lose about 200 meters down a hair-raising hair-pinned cutback road.
Now in Skradin there are two ways to the first set of waterfalls – Skradinski Buk. The first way is a beautiful 3 km bike trail that follows the canyon up to the falls. The other is the free boat. While a pure bikespeditioner maybe should have taken the former, I chose the latter. The boat is a peaceful churning up the Krka River. While it was packed and some of them what can best be described as drunk shirtless Croatian white-hats (I believe the Brits call them chaves) complete with the one fat friend who should have worn his shirt, it was still gorges!
 |
| From Krka |
The boat lets you off in Skradinski Buk (really fun to say: just like it’s spelled). You walk through some beautiful pines and open onto the falls. And, as Paula from Cikada described, you can swim in the wash of the falls. On one end of the swimming area are smaller falls where you can stand.
 |
| From Krka |
Afterwards, I took the “educational trail” around the falls. It leads you past the original hydro-electric station (started only 2 days after Tesla’s at Niagara). This station made Sibenik one of the first electrified cities in Europe. There is also a working mill – unfortunately they didn’t hand out axes like the guy at Palmer State Forest did.
After the trail, I walked back to Skradin along the bike trail. Then it was off to the upper falls – Roski Slap (equally fun to say). These falls were not as big, but I think there was a larger drop in its largest falls.
 |
| From Krka |
I then continued along the roads shown to me by the Polish guy at Cikada Kamp. The road down into Kljucica is especially exciting. It is one mile of 10% grade. I reached the top speed of 37.5 mph (the fastest Schwarzfahrer has ever gone), only to have to slow to 13 to make a hair-pin turn. Unfortunately, now you have to do the same up!
On my return trip I topped 1000 miles for Bikespedition-2009!
Josko and Paula and those who are in the apartments at Cikada met me on my return. (I was the only camper). Josko had a special order for me – Croatian stuffed peppers. I don’t know what’s in the spices but… mmm…mmm…mmm!
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Hello, Croatia!
Distance: 65.5 miles (105 km!)
Difficulty: Medium Hard
Sites: Split, Primosten, Dalmatian Coast
A little piece of advice: be very careful when you say, “I’ll have what he is having.”
After touring the beautiful city of Split, I was making my way toward Krka National Park. Sometime just after noon, I saw a restaurant filled with blue collar guys – a sure sign of good hardy food, cheap.
The guy didn’t appear to have a menu. I looking over to the man in overalls next to me, he appeared to be eating gnocchi, so I said: “I’ll have what he’s having.”
I perused my map for a while trying to determine where I was and how long it was to Krka. The restaurateur came over and placed my coke and food in front of me.
Crap, it’s tripe.
Originally, my plan had been to spend the day seeing Split and then making it 25 or 30km up the road to the campsite at Trogir. That plan had been based on seeing Split in 5 hours. Well, I did it in four – and I had started at 7:30 am. Thus with a Split decision, I chose to ride all the way to Krka.
There are three ways to get from Split to Sibenik. The first is an Autobahn, so that was out. The second is the main coast road. While the third is a minor road that outside of Trogir meets up with the main one. I chose the third, only to never find it and I had to ride all the way to Trogir on a road that was clearly not meant for a 15 mph cyclist to be on.
Once in Trogir, however, it turns into a beautiful coast road that allows you to see every Dalmatian Island along the way. One specific cool spot is the town of Primotsen that packs itself onto an entire small peninsula.
After 90 km or so, I made my way into the town of Sibenik. It is an old 17th Century Fortress town, a UNESCO site and the hometown of Drazen Petrovic – maybe the best basketball player in the world in 1992 not from the United States or Nigeria.
After Sibenik I rode up, up and up into the Croatian hills to my campsite, a delicious dinner and a couple of Croatian beers. Metric Century number 4 completed on bikespedition-2009.
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Difficulty: Medium Hard
Sites: Split, Primosten, Dalmatian Coast
 |
| From Split to Krka |
A little piece of advice: be very careful when you say, “I’ll have what he is having.”
After touring the beautiful city of Split, I was making my way toward Krka National Park. Sometime just after noon, I saw a restaurant filled with blue collar guys – a sure sign of good hardy food, cheap.
The guy didn’t appear to have a menu. I looking over to the man in overalls next to me, he appeared to be eating gnocchi, so I said: “I’ll have what he’s having.”
I perused my map for a while trying to determine where I was and how long it was to Krka. The restaurateur came over and placed my coke and food in front of me.
Crap, it’s tripe.
Originally, my plan had been to spend the day seeing Split and then making it 25 or 30km up the road to the campsite at Trogir. That plan had been based on seeing Split in 5 hours. Well, I did it in four – and I had started at 7:30 am. Thus with a Split decision, I chose to ride all the way to Krka.
There are three ways to get from Split to Sibenik. The first is an Autobahn, so that was out. The second is the main coast road. While the third is a minor road that outside of Trogir meets up with the main one. I chose the third, only to never find it and I had to ride all the way to Trogir on a road that was clearly not meant for a 15 mph cyclist to be on.
 |
| From Split to Krka |
Once in Trogir, however, it turns into a beautiful coast road that allows you to see every Dalmatian Island along the way. One specific cool spot is the town of Primotsen that packs itself onto an entire small peninsula.
After 90 km or so, I made my way into the town of Sibenik. It is an old 17th Century Fortress town, a UNESCO site and the hometown of Drazen Petrovic – maybe the best basketball player in the world in 1992 not from the United States or Nigeria.
After Sibenik I rode up, up and up into the Croatian hills to my campsite, a delicious dinner and a couple of Croatian beers. Metric Century number 4 completed on bikespedition-2009.
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Greece and Italy: The Stats
.jpg) |
| From Collages |
After 76 days in Greece
Miles Biked: 892.4
Gyros pitas I ate: 60-75 (maybe more)
Saganakis (Fried Cheese with Lemon) I ate: 10
Times I ate rabbit: 2
Major Archeological Sites Visited: 6 (Athens, Corinth, Mycenae, Argos, Nemea, Olympia)
Minor Archeological Sites Visited: around 30
Ancient Tracks Sprinted: 3 (Isthmia, Olympia, Nemea)
Venetian/Ottoman Fortresses visited: 6
Bungee Jumps: 1
5000+ footers summited: 1
Earthquakes Felt: 2
Earthquakes Slept thru: 2 – maybe 3
Major Bodies of water swam in: 3 (Aegean Sea, Ionian Sea, Gulf of Corinth)
People with whom I shared major experiences of my life: 24 (At TEFL Corinth - Jim, Marilyn, Lea, Simone, British Kelly (BiK), American Kelly (AcK) and Cat; On the Road from Eghio to Rio - John; At the Katelios Group - Damien, Ian, Ellie, Cecilia, Mia, Ariel, Deb, Lily, Florian, Markus, Manu, Fiona and Fleabag; and on the long boat rides to Italy and Croatia - Santiago and Thomas – Thank you all)
Times I climbed “The Hill”: around 45
Best time on “The Hill”: 12:09
Certificates Earned: 1
Pairs of shoes destroyed: 2 (one worn out, one lost in the seaweed “I lost my shoe”)
100+ km cycling days: 3
Times I had to stop because a herd of sheep was crossing the road: 5
Times I had to help herd said herd of sheep across the road: 1
Goats who tried to bite me: 1
Dolphins seen: 4
Turtles seen: 7
Turtles tagged: 2
Turtles flipped onto their backs: 1
Times I stepped on a sea urchin: 2
Times I put my hand on a sea urchin: 1
Cars who picked me up hitchhiking: 11
Priests who picked me up hitchhiking: 1
Night patrols: 12
Accommodations: 11 [1 hostel, 1 Apartment, 1 cottage, 2 hotels, 6 campgrounds]
Ferries: 5
Times I said to myself: “There is now a ferry involved”: 5
Alarm clocks purchased: 3
Alarm clocks left behind because of absent mindedness: 1
Alarm clocks left behind because they sucked: 1
Yanni Sightings: 0
After 4 hours in Italy
Miles Biked: 7.6
Doerner Paninos Eaten: 1
Tino Pai!
Jesse
33 – Three Boats, 3 Countries, 48 hours (7/7 – 7/9/09)
 |
| Santiago, Thomas and I en route to Croatia! |
Kefalonia, Greece to Split, Croatia via Patra, Greece and Ancona, Italy
I was a bit confused as to what I was supposed to do. Cars and trucks were driving down a long road out of the port while walkers were heading through the port building. With my bike I didn’t quite fit either criterium. But, it was solved for me when the customs guy wouldn’t let me into the main port building. Alas, I started heading down the long road.
A little ways down the road, I found a half-open gate that led into the town. Now, it is here that I am thinking WWGD? (“What would Gabe do?”) On the one hand I haven’t been through customs or anything; on the other hand, it can’t be too bad since I’m going from one Schengan country to another. Weighing the options, I chose to go through the gate, which I’m pretty sure Gabe would have done in my situation.
The Politiza didn’t like it as much as I did. A stocky bald man who looked like the captain from Top Gun half jogged over yelling at me. “SOMETHING IN ITALIAN,” which I liked to think was something about flying plastic dog shit outta Hong Kong. But, based on his body language it was definitely a lot of words for “STOP!”
So I did, but he continued yelling. Maybe he assumed I knew Italian as I had followed his likely directions so well. But, I did not. Instead I said: “Then kataleveno (I do not understand – in Greek),” which was pretty daft – him being Italian and all. So, I’m pretty sure he didn’t katalevene me either.
He apparently knew enough to know that I didn’t know Italian. So he continued in English: “You can’t come through this gate. What do you think you’re doing?”
Hmmm . . . WWGD? Oh, I know: “Scusi Officer, I didn’t know I couldn’t do that.”
“Are you Greek?” he asked looking at my trailer with the pirate and Greek flag flying from it. (I lost that safety orange flag and figured those would be even better.)
“Ohi (No – in Greek, fuck I did it again), Americano”
“Where are you going?”
“Just to see the town in between boats, and to find some food.”
“Where are you staying tonight?”
“Nowhere, well not in Italy, I have to catch the 8:30 to Croatia.”
“You’re not going to L’Aquille?”
Blank look.
“For the G-8?” Crap, that’s what’s going on. The G-8 is in Italy this week and they got the port well guarded for possible Anarchists. Now here comes this guy on a bike with a Black Pirate flag sneaking into the country though a gate that shouldn’t be open. I’m sure he thinks I’m an anarchist – stupid Gabe leading me astray.
“No, no, staying away from that.” The officer took my passport and went to his car with it. I stood over my bike at the threshold of the port/town.
After determining I was not on any anarchist black list, the cop returned and handing me my passport he said: “I have to send one pair from this squadron to Top Gun. Cougar was number one; you guys were number two. Cougar lost his edge and turned in his wings. Cougar’s out; you guys are in.”
At least that’s what I heard. It was probably: “Okay, you can come through.”
“Gratzi”
“Prego”
“Hey, what can I see in this town?”
“I don’t know, I’m not from Ancona . . . maybe you can look at that church up there.”
“Gratzi” and I began to ride off.
“Don’t go to L’Aquille”
“Taksi (OK – in Greek)” which he probably still didn’t katalevene.
Thus I was in Italy for the first time in my life.
7/7/09 06:00 Zulu time (8:00 local) Sami, Greece
 |
| From Three Boats, Three Countries, 48 Hours |
Before I could go to Croatia, I had to get to Italy; but, before I could do that I had to catch the ferry to Patra. I packed up Camp Jesse and cruised down to the port of Sami. There, I found a boat waiting for me. The guy on the loading dock was waving up the ramp. But, then I figured I should check: “Patra?”
“Ohi, Ohi, (No, no) Bari.”
“Pos a Patra . . . umm . . . boat?” (Where is the Patra . . . umm . . . boat?”)
After some long directions in Greek and English that appeared to boil down to “that way,” I found the Patra . . . umm . . . boat and off without a hitch to the mainland.
On our way out of the harbor 4 dolphins swam by to tell me: “So long; and thanks for all the fish.”
7/7/09 11:30 Zulu time (13:30 local) Patra, Greece
 |
| From Three Boats, Three Countries, 48 Hours |
In the port awaiting the loading time for the Ancona . . . umm . . . boat, I watched the third stage of the Tour de France with a family from Washington State. Surprisingly, The Manx Missile won for the third straight time (it was only later I found out it was the day before’s stage.)
I then rode around the rude city of Patra to buy a pirate and a Greek flag – to replace the safety orange one I lost months ago in the hills of Achaia. After that I ran into two guys at the gyro shop in the Center, who looked Argentine but I wasn’t sure.
Later, I ran into those guys again as I still awaited the stupid ferry. They sat outside the portside bar I was at, as I had a few beers with the captain of a freighter. The German captain told me all about going through pirate territory off Somalia. He and his crew told me how they saw a Russian destroyer sink a pirate ship and two small boats that had come too close to their freighter. We then discussed the various large sea animals he’d seen in his travels. I wished them luck on their trip to China, they did the same for mine to Croatia.
Aboard the ferry boat Ancona I ran into the Argentines, again. They were heading all the way to Split like me and I found two traveling companions for my journey.
7/8/09 19:30 Zulu time (20:30 local) Ancona, Italy
 |
| From Three Boats, Three Countries, 48 Hours |
After visiting a bit of Ancona, it was back to the sea. The ferry from Ancona to Split was crappier than the one from Patra to Ancona, the trip was shorter, but it was still twice as much.
I avoided the “casino” this time as I blew 10 euros on the Patra-Ancona leg. Tommy, Santiago and I shared mate and DiSarona aboard, before they went to sleep early (They had been on four ferries, two buses and a train in the past four days heading from Athens – Mikynos – Athens – Patra – Ancona – Split. Whew.)
I slept on the Promenade deck peacefully without any hassle and when I awoke, there was Split awaiting me. I got through the port in Croatia in seconds and said goodbye to Santiago and Thomas – who were on their way to the Dalmatian Islands – outside the customs building.
A quick purchase of coffee and a new flag and here I was – Croatia!
 |
| From Three Boats, Three Countries, 48 Hours |
Tino Pai!
Jesse…
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)