Photo Video

Finally finished my video of photos from my trip:

Lately It Occurs to Me, What a Long Strange Trip It's Been

Bikespedition-2009
Miles: 1501
Countries on Bike: Greece, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia
Countries on Foot/Train/Plane: Serbia, Switzerland, Liechtenstein (Sweden and Iceland)

Alas this road ends. At a new crossroads in life, I must review, reconsider and recompense the previous road.

In 1501 miles cycling, 14 boat rides, 15 tram/subway trips, 8 train rides, 2 international bus trips I visited 9 countries: Greece, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Sweden and Iceland.

I slept in 22 places: 2 hostels, one apartment, 11 campgrounds, 2 hotels, a cottage, on the deck of 2 boats, a room over a tavern, on a train and in one friend’s apartment.

I also did countless hours of hiking – both for the turtles and my own edification. I kayaked over 50km, rowed and used a Croatian wooden boat each for a hour. I swam in 4 seas and 2 rivers. I also took 11 rides hitch hiking.

The highest point I attained (other than aboard planes):
1. Mt. Enos, Greece 1628 meters (5,341 feet)
2. Gaflei, Leichtenstein 1509 meters (4,950 feet)

Highest point I reached on bicycle
1. Lubovo Pass, Croatia 975 meters (3,198 feet)
2. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia 925 meters(3,035 feet)

Longest Day Cycling
Patra – Olympia 85 miles (137 km)

Worst Day Cycling
Duga Resa – Zagreb

Toughest Day Cycling
Paklenica National Park – Outside Gospic (Including the Boske Ostanje Pass)

Best Trip
1. Plitvicka Jezera National Park, Croatia
2. Argoloid (Mycenae, Nemea, Nafplio and Argos)

Toughest Climb
1. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia 925 meters
2. Akrokorinthos, Greece 609 meters

Best Campground
Camp Cikada, near Plivicka Jezera, www.cikada.eu

Worst Campground
Worst – Argostoli Beach, Greece
Worst for the Money – Camp Jezera, Murtar

Best Bike Mechanic
Pantelis - www.panbike.gr

Top Speed
38 mph (61km/h) on the Krka Loop Ride

Silliest Thing I did
Flip over a turtle

Most Frightening Moment
1. Sliding down the cliff while trying to climb Mt. Enos
3. Bungee jumping the first time
100+ km days
7

5 things I’d do again
1. Plitvicka Jezera National Park
2. Krka National Park
3. Bungee jump over the Corinth Canal
4. Kayak in the Ionian Sea
5. The whole idea

5 Things I’d do if I could do it over again
1. Not get my passport stolen
2. Not reschedule parts of my dream trip
3. Learn psi vs bar
4. Ship 50lbs back to the US
5. Bring a better tent

5 favorite views from the trip
1. Anywhere in Plitvicka Jezera, Croatia
2. Overlooking Myrtos Beach, Kefalonia, Greece
3. Sitting in the park at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens
4. The stars in Mreznicki Brig, Croatia
5. The gorge we went through on the train ride back to Belgrade, Serbia

5 most annoying people (or groups)
5. The French people sitting on the stairs at Perahora who got pissed when I wanted to walk down the only way to the site.
4. Family who made me walk the speed of their 5 year old most of the way down from Manta Pec in Paklenica.
3. Serbian Guy at the Information booth in Belgrade Train Station who told me there were no ATMs or Bankomats in Belgrade.
2. The guy who stole my passport.
1. The American woman who had to be talked into the 3 more euros to go to the museum at Olympia. Site – 6 euros; Site+Museum – 9 euros. She didn’t want to waste 3 euros to see the best collection of marble statues in Greece. And, she probably wonders why Europeans think Americans are idiots.

Money I made it home with
7 CHF - $6.56
180 ISK - $1.43
30 SEK - $4.19
10.45 HRK - $2.04
15 euro cents - $0.21
167 SRD - $2.89
Total - $17.32

Best Picture:
Akrata Beach Sunset

From Vrachati - Akrata

Best Pic of Me:
1. Boske Ostanje Pass, Croatia

From mmm...maybe not

2. Bungee Jump at the Sibenik Bridge, Croatia

From One Short Ride

Silliest Pic
Monkey Men

From Katelios

Best Group Picture
Atreus

From Argoloid 2

Alas, I have now returned from the trip and look to the next step in life.

Tino Pai,

Jesse…

Rheinfall and Hike (8/4/09)

Distance: 7 miles
Trip: Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall – Andelfingen
Sites: Rheinfall, Rhine River, Sunflower and corn fields
Difficulty: Easy


View Rheinfall Hike in a larger map

So I really wanted to climb a mountain pass in Switzerland. But, I was convinced to go see the Rheinfall. And, they were right, it was incredible!

I took the train out to Schloss Laufen (which, of course, was being repaired). Then down to the docks where you can catch a boat to the falls and stand on an outcropping amidst them. They are like a short Niagara Falls – anybody traveling to Northern Switzerland is implored to see them.

After seeing the falls, I set out on my hike. I walked down the Rhine for the first hour and then broke off following a path through the corn and sunflower fields.

Rhine - Switzerland left, Germany right

Nothing terribly exciting and definitely I’d do it next time in the other direction so that the falls are the end rather than beginning of the trip.

Hiking the Mouse that Roared (8/1/09)

View Liechtenstein Hike in a larger map

Trip: Vaduz – Gaflei – Vaduz
Starting Altitude: 450 meters
Highest Point: 1509 meters

Vaduz Castle -  the Prince still lives here

When I was about 8, I remember reading this book called “Europe of Yesterday and Today.” It was from the 1960s (being an American school library book). Each country in Western Europe was individually profiled. It led me to read further books in the series: “Germany of Yesterday and Today” and “France of Yesterday and Today.”

But what really interested me was the nation of Liechtenstein. It was a tiny principality that had fewer people than my neighborhood in Atlanta. Its entire army was made up of 14 policemen. Its major connection with the world outside was its postage stamps. My father had me watch the movie The Mouse that Roared because of my interest.

I decided that day I was going to see Liechtenstein one day. It was one of those things that would always be on my lifelong list.

Raphael kept telling me I was crazy: “Liechtenstein sucks.” But, I was going to do it damn it. And when I was in Zurich the first time, we had planned to make a side trip. That hadn’t worked out, but now I was doing it.

I took the train from Zurich to Sargans (near the border). From there I took a “Liechtenstein Bus” into Vaduz.

Gaflei, Liechtenstein

Admittedly, there really isn’t anything to do in Liechtenstein. So, I figured I’d hike up into the Alps.

I made my way from Vaduz and past the Vaduz Castle. And then up and up and up until the village of Gaflei – 1509 meters. So the net gain was over 1000 meters. And, I did it carrying all my camping equipment. Of course I regretted carrying all the equipment once I couldn’t get a camp site on the Walensee.

The views of the Alps – Swiss, Austrian and Liechtenstein(ian?) were absolutely amazing. If I had more time I would have hiked even higher, but alas I had to get to those campgrounds to not get a site.

Trapped in Serbia (7/26 -7/29/09)

I was sweating from both the heat inside the police station and the unknown process that lay ahead of me. As I sat in the waiting area in the hallway, I watched as cop after cop walked out of the office taking a drag from their cigarettes right at the “No Smoking” sign.

When I had been given my emergency passport, the embassy woman told me: “Now you have to go back to the foreigners’ office at the police station and get a stamp for you new passport.”

Dutifully, I went down to the office, walked into the door I had entered two evenings before and announced the situation, “Hey, I need to get a stamp on my new passport.” I handed the officer behind the desk the new passport and the police report from Sunday night about the theft.

“Hold on one minute,” he said. As I stood there for a second, the officer told me: “you can wait outside.”

Crap I thought. I had not wanted to relinquish this passport to anyone – government official or not. But, alas, if this makes me leave quicker I’ll accept it. So I had gone out to wait in the hallway, watching the police smoke cigarettes past the “No Smoking” sign.

After about five minutes, the officer who had told me to wait outside came from his office. “I spoke with my colleague who filled out the initial report.”

“yes, yes” I said, “nice guy!”

“Yeas, I don’t know him well. But, he said that there is a receipt form that needs to be filed in this case. You need to return between 13 hundred and 15 hundred, Tuesday to Friday to sign this receipt form at room 44. Then you will be clear to leave our country.” He paused as I listened to him. “Do you need to write this down?”

“No, room 44, 1 to 3 tomorrow,” I said.

“Yes,” he said handing my passport. “So, tomorrow, you return to sign the receipt form?”

“Da,” I smiled knowing that I had no intention of ever returning to this police station if I could help it.

*******

As long as I was on my bike, I had had no issues. I mean were basic problems dealing with my complete lack of knowledge of the local language – Greek, Italian or Croatian. And, I had had the minor problem entering Italy. But, it wasn’t until I got into Serbia without my bike (selling it in Zagreb) that the shit hit the fan.

On Saturday, July 25, I left Zagreb for a grueling train trip across the Balkans. I had to take a bus from Camp-Plitvice into Zagreb, change to a tram into the center and then get onto a train to Belgrade; change in Belgrade for the train to Sofia. Once in Sofia I had eight hours to make my way from the train station to the airport.

Part one of the trip went off without a hitch – except for having to run for the bus into the tram station. I got onto the train to Beograd and was off to catch my plane into Sofia.

So I went to dinner in Belgrade. Then I got the night train to Sofia.

That’s where the shit hit the fan.

At the stop before the border, I was awoken by people entering my compartment. That’s when I realized what happened. My bag was gone. In the bag were several important items.

1. Train ticket
2. Jesse Bear
3. Writing Journal
4. Refrigerator Magnets from Greece and Croatia (and one from Italy)
5. Charger for my camera
6. Money
7. Appalachian Mountain Club Nalgene
8. Passport
9. Toiletries

Now without any of these I was stuck. The train guys and the people in my compartment helped me search the train for my bag – but to no avail. We did find the passport of a Portuguese guy who had had his bag stolen as well.

So, I had to get off the train in Dimitrovgrad – at the Bulgarian border. Then, it was the long 9 hour train trip back to Beograd. Uhnn…

Upon, return to the capital of Serbia, I tried to get a hostel room. But this requires a passport. So, I needed some document from the police in order to get a hostel room.

With directions to the police station, I scampered down the streets of Belgrade. I went into the “foreigners’ office” only to be told I needed to talk to the real cops. Well, this is when the whole thing got a little surreal.

I was led into the bowels of the Serbian police station and sat in a barren office with one guy sitting there working on a computer and smoking beneath a clearly marked “No Smoking” sign. As I sat there quietly he continued writing.

In my mind I’m thinking: “Shit, I’m deep in a Serbian Police Station and nobody knows I’m here!”

Another officer entered, giving me a dirty look and handed the smoking man some forms to sign. Smoking man signs the forms slowly and deliberately, glancing toward me every now and then but no actually acknowledging me.

Finally he’s done signing the forms and the other officer leaves. I sit there quietly for a second and then say: “You know, I don’t have to report the money if it would make things easier…”

“I am investigative detective [didn’t catch the name]. I am in charge of investigation for this station. Now, how much money was lost?”

My goal had been to make the money as unimportant as possible. All I really wanted was a piece of paper saying my passport was stolen so that I could get a hostel bed: “280 euros.” (It was really 580).

“Let me see you’re papers.”

So I handed him my state ID and my Harvard ID.

“What about you’re passport?”

“That was stolen; that’s the real reason I’m here.”

Now investigative detective didn’t-catch-his-name rolls his eyes. “Where did this happen?”

“On the train going to Sofia.”

“At the Belgrade Station?”

“No, no near the Bulgarian border.”

Well, this back and forth continues for a while, whilst he attempts to ascertain how it was this Yankee was sitting at his desk. Finally, I was able to get all the information to him. He checks on me over the phone calling me “Yankee scum” several times.

“What is you’re employment?”

“Oh, I’m a teacher and a writer.”

“Hmmm…are you sure you are not a spy?”

“Pretty sure.”

“Because, you know: You bomb us in ‘99.”

Aww…fuck, this is something I hoped wouldn’t have come up.

“All Serbians assume all Americans are spies. And in Belgrade they do not like Panathenikos, we are Olympicos fans here.”

So, I took off my hat and then tried to explain that I probably wouldn’t be there if I were a spy. But this really didn’t help much.

So, after two hours in the Serbian police station, I finally get my police report stating that my passport was stolen and I returned to the hostel. The woman takes my report begrudgingly and gives me my room assignment. I go to the room drop off my shit and go to the internet café to get some help.

So, I spent the next two days in Belgrade just wandering around the city and waiting for my new passport to get straightened out. I had issues, in that Belgradians do no like Americans – at all. But to be fair “You bomb us in ’99.”

Then on Tuesday, I finally got everything in order and had my new passport! Yay! The passport office then sent me to the Police Office to get my new “entry stamp” that would allow me to leave Serbia – that’s when the officer told me to return the next day, yeah right.

On Wednesday, I flew out of Serbia to Zurich – finally leaving the country without Ainje.

The even Worster Day of Bikespedition (7/26/09)

Dimitrograd, where I got kicked off the train

Well, I was awoken at the Bulgarian border. Unfortunately, my bag with ticket to Sofia and my passport is gone.

The train guys and my fellow passengers tried to help me find it. No luck.

Got kicked off the train. Had to wait in Dimitriovgrad for 6 hours for the next train to Belgrade (eight hours away).

Next I had to go into the bowels of a Serbian police station to get a paper saying my passport and money were stolen.

Oh god!

Standing all the way to Belgrade (7/25/09)

Got a country song for this train ride:

Watching Croatian fields pass by me
Heading somewhere you won't be.
Cuz I'm standing all the way to Belgrade
Leaving Zagreb on a one way train.
Sweden won't be the same without you
its so hard if you only knew.
Cuz I'm standing all the way to Belgrade,
Leaving Zagreb on a one way train.

(Now if I can work in a dead dog and a waitress at a road house - I got a hit).

Did meet two cool people on the train. Anije, the Slovenian getting a phd comparative lit and a chain smoking Croatian truck driver.

He says we should get together and I can't leave Serbia without her.

Anije and I got dinner in Belgrade and I hopped the train to Sofia - leaving Serbia without her.