Friday, June 12, 2009

Lost in Ellia – Poulaki to Loutra Killini – 62 miles (5/30/09)

After the third time I said, “hmm… this looks familiar,” I realized almost all two lane roads that got through hillside olive orchards pretty much look the same! I had to admit to myself, “you’re lost boy!”

*****

In the morning I shifted campsites further up the coast of the Ionian, from Poulaki to one near the baths of Killini. I found the campground and set up Camp Jesse. Then I went to see the two major archeological sites of the area. The first was the Roman baths of Killini (there are modern ones next door that use the same sulfured water – boy does it stink!) The remains of the Latin buildings were not as exciting as the guidebook made it out to be!

The second sight was the Chlemoutsi Castle in Kastro. This beautifully preserved castle from Frankish and Venetian times dominates the landscape of this part of Ellia. So much so that on a clear day, it is said you can see Zakynthos and Kefalonia. While its not as tough as Akrokorinthos, its no easy ride.

The preservation work makes the castle odd in two respects. First, it doesn’t feel like you could slip wandering the site. Second, they have roped off parts where tourists may do damage to the original structure. This therefore, keeps you from having the views of Zakynthos and Ellia for which it was known, as you can’t get onto the ramparts.

Leaving the castle, is when I started my path to confusion. I took a wrong turn in Albuquerque or something. Fortunately, if I ever found the national road or the Ionian Sea, I’d be golden! Well, 20 miles later I did find the National Road. And, I realized I was MILES from the turn off to Loutra Killini. Eventually, I found the turn off and stopped at the local kiosk for water. I played the little basketball game (you know, with the little hoop in a cage).

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