It’s Snorkelin’ you Doricalin’ – Katelios Reef (6/2/09)

From Snorkle Dorkle

I got to lead another volunteer to the Koroni trip today. Still no turtles!

In the afternoon Ellie and I hiked down the road into Katelios for a new activity. Years ago, I remember my uncle declaring he had done something no Morrow ever attempted – roofing. To my knowledge, I may have done the same today – not roofing. Instead, snorkeling.

I purchased a snorkel at the local mini-mart. Ellie and I climbed about on the rocky path that divided Katelios from Mounda. Down to where there are some reefs.

From Snorkle Dorkle

I pulled a Marc Ricard and immediately broke my new toy. But, jury-rigging the snorkel to the mask I was able to set out like a seal into the sea, in search of fish to see.

Snorkeling is frightening at first. Go ahead put your face into a position where you would normally drown. Now, keep it there. And then, swim. I got over the fear factor – a little.

Ellie saw an eel. (I couldn’t make it out). Yet, I saw neither seals nor turtles. I got some good pictures of the reef, tho. Snorkeling is definitely a new geeky sport for me.

Koroni Moroni – Bike Hike and Yak – 5 mile bike (6/1/09)

6:30 is early anywhere. Ceclia and I were already on the road by then. From Base-camp Turtle we were heading to some western beaches to check possible turtle nests. You ride through the early morning in the villages of Mavrata and Thiramanos; and then down the old dirt road to Koroni. The old road becomes impossibly impassible after the vineyard and the cows.

Here you dismount and hike down a cutback trail and clay cliffs onto Koroni beach. We walked Koroni, picking up trash and looking for turtle tracks. Lots of the former – none of the latter.

Next we grabbed the two beached kayaks and took to the Ionian. On the yak we went over the perfect blue green sea and some reef formations. Schools of fish scampered about the rocks. On the coast the Ionian had carved impressive caves from the clay and rock cliffs that abutted the sea. I came close to one, but did not go all the way in as I feared a smashing end to the trip.

About a km later we landed. At the western beach, we found a deserted land thrown up against the foothills of Mt. Ainos. The beach was apparently only frequented by Katelios volunteers, locals with ATVs and sheep. (there were droppings everywhere.)

I felt like the trolls in the Hobbit. “No sign of bur-hobbits, but plenty of these here dwarves.” Indeed, no sign of nesting turtles but plenty of this here trash.

We kayaked back to Koroni and climbed up the dilapidated road, then biked back to Base-camp Turtle. It was beautiful ride, hike and yak. It was a trip that as a guide that with lunch I would have charged 50 bucks a pop for. (maybe, that’s how those guides start out.)

Lost in Ellia – Poulaki to Loutra Killini – 62 miles (5/30/09)

After the third time I said, “hmm… this looks familiar,” I realized almost all two lane roads that got through hillside olive orchards pretty much look the same! I had to admit to myself, “you’re lost boy!”

*****

In the morning I shifted campsites further up the coast of the Ionian, from Poulaki to one near the baths of Killini. I found the campground and set up Camp Jesse. Then I went to see the two major archeological sites of the area. The first was the Roman baths of Killini (there are modern ones next door that use the same sulfured water – boy does it stink!) The remains of the Latin buildings were not as exciting as the guidebook made it out to be!

The second sight was the Chlemoutsi Castle in Kastro. This beautifully preserved castle from Frankish and Venetian times dominates the landscape of this part of Ellia. So much so that on a clear day, it is said you can see Zakynthos and Kefalonia. While its not as tough as Akrokorinthos, its no easy ride.

The preservation work makes the castle odd in two respects. First, it doesn’t feel like you could slip wandering the site. Second, they have roped off parts where tourists may do damage to the original structure. This therefore, keeps you from having the views of Zakynthos and Ellia for which it was known, as you can’t get onto the ramparts.

Leaving the castle, is when I started my path to confusion. I took a wrong turn in Albuquerque or something. Fortunately, if I ever found the national road or the Ionian Sea, I’d be golden! Well, 20 miles later I did find the National Road. And, I realized I was MILES from the turn off to Loutra Killini. Eventually, I found the turn off and stopped at the local kiosk for water. I played the little basketball game (you know, with the little hoop in a cage).

For the Laurels – Ancient Olympia and Olympia to Poulaki – 25 miles (5/29/09)

As I returned from my sprint, I noticed everyone was kind of staring at me. A British tourist came up and commended my run. “How far is it?”

“About 150 yards,” I said.

“Not a lot of people would run it in this heat.”

I found the comment odd. I came all the way to Olympia; I’m sprinting the fucking track! As a matter of fact, I did it at Nemea and Isthmia, too. Now I’ve done three of the four parts of the Ancient Grand Slam. Once I sprint Delphi, I’ll be one up on Roger Federer!

Olympia is remarkably well preserved. The temple of Phillip and Hera were awesome (along with the altar to Hera where they light the torch). But, the sight of the temple to Zeus is magnificent! You can see the spot where the statue of Zeus (one of the Seven Wonders), was situated.

But the jewel of the site is the museum. Neither Schliemann nor various British earls were hear to steal the original friezes from the Greeks. (I’m sorry “buy” the rights to it from the Ottomans). Specifically, the statue of Hermes is a treat. I would put Olympia on the list of most see before you die things.

After the Archeology Museum, I went across town to the Museum of the Modern Olympics. I don’t think it was worth the 2 euros I spent to get in. It was like me and another guy had a couple of pins from the few games, got some pictures together from the net and pasted it all to walls. Outside of the machine that apparently took the flame to space for ’76 Montreal and a few original torches – I was unimpressed.

I left Olympia and made my way to Poulaki campground. The guy who spoke almost no English did not have my reservation that I had made over the internet. His English speaking daughter then got into it with him. I think she was telling him he had to check the email everyday.

The older man definitely didn’t feel the internet was that important: “eegh… internet, internet” was his answer to his daughter.

Fortunately there were plenty of sights. I set up camp and grabbed a swim in the Ionian Sea for the first time.

To the Games - Patra to Olympia - (5/28/09) - 80 miles

It was officially the right moment!

For 100 kilometers I dragged 100lbs of gear on nothing but a tomato, coffee and a grilled ham and cheese sandwich. 25 km from Olympia my head started to bounce with visions of Anna’s Tacqueria. I could have eaten 4 chicken and rice quesadillas at that moment. When I asked myself if Anna’s might have expanded to Olympia yet – I knew it was time to stop for a minute.

Somewhere in my gear was my savior. A special friend sent me a gift two Cliff bars. I ate the first after my long ride to Perachora, when I was in Vrachati. I almost ate the second, but decided to save it for the right time. Considering if a small chain of tacquerias in the Boston area had expanded all the way to Ancient Olympia seemed the right moment!

****

I was thankful to leave Patra. It is a quite dull city. And, it is the rudest city I have ever been to. (Mind you I’m from Boston). With 80 miles on the road ahead, I made my way early to St. Andrew’s Square and the Starbucks. I never drink Starbucks at home but it is the only place in Greece where you can buy 500mL of coffee all at once.

I took the small old road along the south coast of the Gulf of Patra. Unfortunately, as soon as I left Patra, the road was closed for construction. I wound through the roads of Achaia looking for detours to Pyrgos. Eventually, it did carry me back to the roads to the old road.

I found a small cafe/mini-mart in a village along the way with old men sitting about. I grabbed a Nes from the café and two tomatoes from the market. I sat at the table in the café eating one of the tomatoes.

An older guy who was waiting at the bus stop began complaining that the Patra bus wasn’t coming. While I do not speak Greek, it was obvious one of the coffee guys was telling him to ride my Patra. We all shared a laugh.

One guy was surprised. “Menes ellinki? (do you speak Greek?)

“Ohi (no)” I said “but you told him (pointing to the guy at the bus stop) to ride my cycle (using my hands to show the pedal motion) to Patra (pointing back to the city).”

Everyone laughed “Nai (yes), nai (yes)”

After what I can only assume (or hope) were well wishes from the café sitters, I set back onto the old road. In Kato Achaia, I ran into more problems. It is one of these Greek towns that while it has not lost its village flavor, has lost its village size. So the roads are too small for the number of people who now live there. And the signs to Pyrgos were just gone.

I got directions, that despite not being in a language I could understand were quite explicit. He through in some Italian that I could sort of figure out. (Since I have started to tan nobody thinks I’m German anymore, they think I’m Italian). But he also gave me fantastic gestures and visual queues including the break lights of a nearby car for traffic light etc. So I was comfortable heading towards Pygos/Olympia.

I took the new road through Achaia according to the guy’s directions. It was not as scenic as the old road and did not go through all the little villages. But, it was less steep and there was a huge breakdown lane that made me quite comfortable riding along it.

The next place I stopped was Lechiano. I got a grilled ham and cheese sandwich (“toast”) in a small café on the square. They had speakers hung about on the trees. They played bad 70s and 80s American rock. “I Want to Know What Love Is” came on. But without the whole gang or a Swiss guy with a mullet doing tequila shots, I chose not to sing the chorus.

After Lechiano, it was more distance on the new road. The first 100 km of the trip was not terribly difficult – just long. But, with 25 km to go, I was starved and popped my first tube of the trip! Two Albanians watched me pretty intently as I changed the tube. (They thought I was Italian as well!) As I left they told me I should get a car next time.

The last 25 km of the Olympia trip were by far the worst. I was tired, hungry, smelly. And that’s when the hills hit. I had to drag myself over three huge hills (they weren’t that big – but after 100km of cycling lots of things are big).

It took me nearly two hours from Pyrgos to Olympia. But I kept the Olympic fanfare in my head; that kept me going when all else failed! I found my hotel, showered and got some Mousaka! (It was very good and it WAS mousaka.)